Most people love shoes. You can find shoes in every shape, color, design, and price. But, is it worth investing in a good pair of quality leather shoes?

But choosing good materials is not the only secret of longevity. We as shoemakers also use a high quality Goodyear Welt construction, making our shoes eternal.

More than 60 craftsmen are involved in the process of manufacturing one of our Goodyear Welted shoes, and they use between 25 and 50 different elements and pieces of material for this process. All this involves a process with more than 120 handcrafted phases, from beginning to end.

WHAT ARE GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES?

Goodyear welted shoes are a type of high quality shoe construction. The construction consists of stitching the upper leather, lining leather, and welt, a unique piece of leather to the ribbing bonded to the insole. Then the welt is sewed to the leather or rubber sole. It's this final stitch that holds the sole in place.

This type of shoe construction is the most durable method in shoe making that is expensive and time-consuming. It could only be made by highly skilled & qualified craftsmen as it is recognised as an exceptional technique of shoe construction.

WHO INVENTED THE GOODYEAR WELT?

In 1872 Charles Goodyear invented a machine capable of stitching the welt to the insole, thus revolutionizing the quality of footwear worldwide. Due to its longstanding heritage, little needed maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetics, the Goodyear welting method is highly valued in the high-end shoe market.

THE STRUCTURE OF GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES

There are five elements involved in the construction of Goodyear Welted Shoes:

• The Upper - This is the leather above the sole when a shoe is worn. In simple words, it is everything that covers the foot when wearing the shoe.

• The Outsole - Is the material on the bottom and exterior of the sole. It is what comes in contact with the ground.

• The Insole - Is the material inside the shoe that comes in contact with the feet.

• The Welt - On high-quality shoes, the welt is a strip of leather that goes along the outsole's edges. Its main purpose is to attach the upper to the outsole. 

• The Last - Is what gives a shoe its structure. It is the three-dimensional model of the foot, and it is used for design and construction.

It is crucial to understand that there are three basic shoe construction techniques: cementing, Blake Stitching, and Goodyear Welting. Without a doubt, the most labor-intensive and most durable is the Goodyear Welting.

HOW ARE GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES MADE?

The Goodyear Welt type of shoe construction is the most durable method, and it can be done by machine or hand. The Goodyear Welting is the oldest and most intensive method to construct a shoe as it involves four steps.

STEP 1 PREPARING THE INSOLE

This method begins with preparing the insole for stitching. For this, the shoemaker needs to create a perpendicular cut that goes around the insole. To generate this rib, the creator can cut and sculpt the insole or use supplementary material.

STEP 2 CONSTRUCT THE SHOE

The second step is to construct the shoe; in other words, to last the shoe. The shoemaker does this by stretching the outsole over the shoe structure and attaching it, with the insole to the last.

STEP 3 WELT

The third step is to do the welting. Here the shoe cord is sewn over the welt, the upper, and the insole rib using a different stitch; the welt adheres to the outsole. Keep in mind that a latch is used to prevent the chain from separating if it breaks down. 

A wooden stalk is added for durability and support. A cork filling is placed between the inner and outsole to give some padding for the feet.

STEP 4 FINISHING THE SHOE

Finally, hot irons are utilized to smooth the sole's edge, proving a hard, round, and polish surface. In this last step, the leather heel is nailed to the sole providing the sole its final trimming.

At this phase, the shoe construction is almost finished, but some final elements are remaining such as:

• The upper and welt are clean and polish.
• The soles are polished with wax
• The shoes are shine and luster 
   

GOODYEAR WELT FLEX

The most comfortable shoes ever made!

The Goodyear Flex Welt system is an entirely new production method specifically developed with Comfort in mind while preserving the Quality and Style of the original Goodyear construction. Applying innovative production techniques, we tried to maximize flexibility and maintain durability. The cross section view of one of our shoes indicates how it is made. 

 

These shoes are made from Italian reverse high quality Calf Suede leather to give a glove like feeling. They are soft, supple, breathable as well as flexible. The sole is made from our revamped oil leather for extra comfort and flexibility. In fact in this raw leather is oil-tanned and stretched before being cut into sole shapes.

THE BENEFITS OF GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES

Since highly skilled craftspeople do every element of this shoe construction, there are many benefits: 

DURABILITY

When you buy our Goodyear Welted shoes, you know you have made an investment that will last for a long time. Please note that all leather soles let water in but with Goodyear Welted shoes, it takes longer for any moisture to penetrate as there is more material between your feet and the ground. Besides, Goodyear Welted shoes can be repaired in contrast to rubber soles. 

LONGEVITY

It is crucial to take good care of the upper of the Goodyear Welted shoes since talented craftspeople can replace the sole and the heel without interfering with the shoe's structure.

One of the main characteristics is that Goodyear Welted shoes get better with time. As time passes, the upper takes the shape of the foot, making them more comfortable.

The truth is that Goodyear Welted shoes are cheaper in the long run as you don't need to buy a new pair every six months. With proper care, these men's shoes can last between up to ten years.

COMFORT

When you buy high-quality men's shoes, you need to understand that there is an adjustment process. The upper must soften and take your foot's shape, the cork filler takes a footprint, and the leather soles need to be scratched up a little to avoid gliding around. After wearing them up to five times, your Goodyear Welted shoes will be so comfortable that you won't want to take them off.

Please note that once the shoe is mold to the feet, it provides an almost custom fit.

Goodyear welted shoes can be resoled on many occasions. They also provide superior ventilation and are relatively waterproof.

HOW TO IDENTIFY GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES? 

Goodyear Welted shoes have a higher price than those made through other construction methods like Cementing & Blake Stitching. Though, Goodyear Welted Shoes have a longer lifespan and can be re-soled on numerous occasions.

Goodyear Welted shoes have two stitches. One in the inside of the shoe, as the upper and the border, are sewn together. And two, a welt is sewn to the sole. The welt is a strip of leather that goes around the outside of the shoe.

One of Goodyear's Welted shoes' main features is that this construction method does not connect the outside and inside the shoe, providing more water-resistance.

Please note that the space between the outer sole and the insole is filled with cork to provide added insulation and more comfort when wearing the shoe.

It is possible to tell if a shoe is Goodyear welted by noticing the visible stitching on the welt's top and the shoe's bottom.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES LAST LONGER?

A pair of Goodyear welted shoes doesn't need special care, but it is a wise idea to have good maintenance to last a lot longer. Here are some suggestions for proper shoe care. 

FIRST TIME

It is essential to understand that on first wearing the pores on the sole open. After three or four wears, dirt and dust get impingement into the pores resulting in a protective shield. Make sure to wear the shoes a couple of times in the dry before wearing them in the wet.

WET SHOES

Please note that if your shoes get soaked, the leather will be fine. If the Goodyear welted shoes get wet, you need to let them dry at room temperature for at least 48 hours. Make sure to place the shoes in a shoe-trees to avoid the leather to adopt odd shapes as they dry.

Allow the sole leather to dry completely since wet soles wear out twice as quickly.

CLEAN AND POLISH REGULARLY

It is crucial to clean the shoes with a dry surface to remove dirt before polishing. Make sure to remove the laces before polishing to prevent them from getting waxy.

We recommend polishing the shoes at night, so you leave it as long as possible. Always use plenty of polish, particularly in the welt and between the upper and sole.

Don't forget to remove excess polish with a cloth or brush. Ultimately, shine the shoes. 

Tip: If you want to give tan shoes an old-looking effect, you can use a darker color such as black polish.

PROTECT THE SOLES

Goodyear Welted shoes can be repaired since we mentioned before, and the sole can be resoled several times. It is an excellent idea to test the sole. Use your thumb to push the spot in the middle of the shoe's front where you walk. When the area feels very soft, it is time to change the sole.

Test the soles regularly to avoid a hole to appear. If a hole appears, it is crucial to stop wearing them immediately to avoid damaging the shoe's insole and structure. 

SUEDE SHOES

If you have Goodyear Welted Suede shoes, always apply a protective spray to shield them from stains or water before and after using the spay, you need to give them a good brush.

Please note it is not necessary to do this every time you wear the shoes. Do it every so often to enhance the resistance. 

It is a wise idea to have a suede or nubuck eraser to rub out if you get a small stain or mark. Allow mud to dry before brushing the shoes. If your suede shoes get wet, don't forget to use a shoe-tree or place some newspaper inside and allow them to dry for at least 48 hours.

BOTTOM LINE

With proper care, our Goodyear Welted shoes will provide your feet with a lifetime of comfort and durability.
They are one of the highest symbols of quality in hand made Gentlemen & Ladies  shoes and our customers will appreciate the benefits of wearing one of the most high-quality hand made footwear worldwide.